手機(jī)版
We all love the food we grow up on, but we also seek adventure in the food we have never tasted. A hugely popular TV documentary series puts the spotlight on a culinary tradition that should make China proud. Of all the subjects fit for documentary filmmaking, food is probably not high on the priority list.
There have been a smattering of fictional feature films with food as the main theme, such as Ang Lee's Eat Drink Man Woman - but food in such films is the icing on the cake, while the human drama is the cake, per se.
That's why A Bite of China has been such a surprise hit since first appearing on our TV screens in 2012.
Without anything like a promotional fanfare, the series has attracted a following larger than the biggest drama or comedy shows.
Its main ingredient is the clever interweaving of human stories with the preparation of food. But in this case, the audience mainly sees the human stories as the appetizer, and details about the food as the real beef.
There were even some complaints when human characters took up more screen time than the dishes.
But still, the runaway success of this well-made TV recipe has whipped up a food frenzy in the Middle Kingdom.
Items featured on the show have seen their sales skyrocket within a short time of being aired. In the first season, a rare mushroom made its way from a Tibetan forest into an upmarket coastal city restaurant.
The difficulty in collecting the elusive fungus meant an eye-watering price on the menu. As well as its fantastic taste, the filmmakers probably quite rightly considered the livelihood of the collectors when they highlighted that particular delicacy.
But it still had an unexpected fallout: So many people (the rich, of course) were alerted to it, that demand shot up and the fragile ecosystem where it grows is now threatened.
In Season 2, which has just ended, the show switched its focus to items more affordable to everyone. No longer were rare delicacies the main attraction, and so maybe gastronomic enthusiasm has been dampened slightly.
For many, curiosity remains the main driving force behind high-end Chinese cuisine.
Some seek out rare plants and animals in the name of gaining better health benefits, or delectability.
But I challenge that.
I have been enticed to try a few such rare delicacies in my time, and the truth be told, they are often not as delicious as billed.
On a trip to Hainan, one fish I was sold for 10 times the price of a regular one was not half as tasty as the lesser option.
No, it is the inaccessibility that raises the perceived value of some items.
The thought of eating items only a few can afford is the reason why some species are endangered. In that sense, the makers of A Bite of China have been right to steer away from those rare edibles that represent status symbols in high society.
But maybe the biggest upside of the series is the awakening of love among a wider swath of the Chinese public, simply for the food they consume on a daily basis.
It is not every day that people treat what they eat as part of their culture. But it could certainly be argued that Chinese food is the only part of Chinese tradition that has deeply touched almost every other culture around the globe.
In the US, for instance, even small towns with no Chinese inhabitants have Chinese restaurants.
Chinese food is known to be delicious and affordable - maybe not exactly Michelin-caliber - and for those places which do have a Chinese community, the restaurant can act as a lifeline of many who settle there.
However, for a long time, some have harbored the elitist view that food is somehow low on the list of a country's cultural markers.
In the 1980s, I joined a group of Chinese dignitaries on a tour of North America.
They dined out in so many Chinese restaurants (they were not yet accustomed to Western food, not even fast food) that some feared that many Americans might simply consider Chinese food was all China had to offer.
That offended many Chinese-Americans, who made a good living as restaurateurs. But after watching this show, surely nobody would now dare make such a flippant remark.
Today, people are so genuinely proud of Chinese food that some have moved to the other end of the scale, believing in the superiority of what they eat, to the exclusion of everything else. In an era of little mobility, people ate what they grew, with almost no chance of tasting things from afar.
People grew attached to their own foods, taking them along when they relocated.
This was extolled as a virtue, or a sign of nostalgia, in the series.
I certainly view our food as a key part of our cultural identity, which is etched on us, mainly because of economic necessity.
Nowadays young people in big cities have access to all kinds of food. They may not like all of them, but that smirk of disdain is no longer visible on their face because they probably don't have their home cuisine as the only benchmark.
There is nothing wrong with thinking your hometown's food is the best.
However, one should caution against the flip side of this belief - that unfamiliar foods are simply inferior.
When CNN's website ran an article headlined "Top 10 disgusting foods in the world" about two years ago, many cried foul.
Most of the items highlighted were from Asia, including my personal favorite, pidan: the famous "hundred-year egg" or "thousand-year egg". Duck, chicken or quail eggs are preserved in a mixture of clay, ash, salt, quicklime and rice hulls for up to several months.
I have to admit, I would not have had the guts to taste some of the other choices. But I'm sure their own locals love them. All have to be taken in perspective.
I'm sure most citizens of Atlanta, Georgia, where CNN is headquartered, would have been appalled by some of these foods.
But CNN is not just an Atlanta operation. It has viewers across the world.
Maybe to be accurate, the piece should have added a qualifying clause "from the point of view of middle Americans".
Likewise, Chinese foodies intoxicated by the pride of their own food should avoid rushing to any prejudicial conclusions.
Yes, Chinese cuisine is rich in its regional diversity, but it is not the world's only great food.
The way the Chinese prepare their food has as much flair as art - but so does French food.
Worldwide, Chinese food may not be on a par with French in terms of prestige. Then again, I'm not bothered by prestige.
Cultural confidence lies in the conviction of your own roots and at the same time in the awareness that there are other equally great things to consider in the national identity mix.
There is no conflict between preserving our own cultural heritage and absorbing nutrients from other cultures.
Only when one is extremely weak would one see all things different as a threat.
Food culture evolves with time. Unlike other culture-based products, food is first of all a necessity and, as such, its health values should not be ignored.
But food rises above that. It goes beyond filling the stomach and satisfying hunger, and slips into the realm of culinary art that appeals to all senses.
As the pace of globalization accelerates, there will be less and less pure-bred food.
So, for a younger generation so fixated on Western-origin fast food, this documentary is a gentle reminder of a luxury being offered up every day in our own kitchens, that we all may well have been taking for granted.
中文：
我們喜歡那些從小吃到大的食物，但也會(huì)去嘗試那些從未嘗過(guò)的食物。大型電視紀(jì)錄片《舌尖上的中國(guó)》播出令國(guó)人自豪的傳統(tǒng)美食。在這紀(jì)錄片的所有主題中，食物不是最主要的主題。
只有很少的故事片是以食物為主要題材，例如李安的《飲食男女》，影片中的食物可算錦上添花，然而最主要的還是人物劇情本身。
這就是為何《舌尖上的中國(guó)》在2012年開(kāi)播以來(lái)反響巨大的一個(gè)原因。
沒(méi)有過(guò)多地推廣宣傳，但《舌尖上的中國(guó)》這個(gè)系列卻擁有一大批粉絲，比最大型的戲劇或喜劇演出還受歡迎。
紀(jì)錄片在描述食物取材時(shí)，巧妙地融入人們的故事。在這種情況下，觀眾就把人們的故事當(dāng)作開(kāi)胃菜，把對(duì)食物的詳細(xì)介紹當(dāng)作主菜。
當(dāng)然，當(dāng)影片過(guò)多地刻畫(huà)人物而不是介紹美食時(shí)，也會(huì)引起觀眾的抱怨。
但這絲毫不影響《舌尖上的中國(guó)》在中國(guó)的成功，還激起人們對(duì)食物的狂熱。
在紀(jì)錄片播出后不久，片中出現(xiàn)的食材，其銷(xiāo)量就直線飆升。
在第一季中，一種西藏森林中的稀有蘑菇被運(yùn)到沿海城市的一所高級(jí)餐廳中。
由于這些稀有的菌類(lèi)食物取材困難，所以餐廳菜單上的菌類(lèi)價(jià)格就高的驚人。制片人在強(qiáng)調(diào)這種獨(dú)特的美味時(shí)，不單考慮食材的美妙口感，而且還考慮到采集者的生活。
紀(jì)錄片仍出現(xiàn)始料未及的結(jié)果：那就是太多的有錢(qián)人開(kāi)始注意它，需求涌動(dòng)，導(dǎo)致當(dāng)?shù)卮嗳醯纳鷳B(tài)系統(tǒng)面臨威脅。
在剛剛結(jié)束的第二季中，紀(jì)錄片把食材的重心放在那些人人可得的食材上。不再以稀有美食來(lái)吸引觀眾，所以觀眾的烹飪激情或許有些減退。
對(duì)于很多人來(lái)說(shuō)，在博大精深的中國(guó)烹飪背后，好奇仍然是主要的驅(qū)動(dòng)力。
為了更加健康，體驗(yàn)更美味的食物，人們就會(huì)去尋找那些稀有的動(dòng)植物。
但是我卻很懷疑這個(gè)。
我曾被勸說(shuō)去嘗試一些稀有美食，但事實(shí)是，它們常常沒(méi)有宣傳中所描述的那般美味。
有一次在海南，我以10倍于普通價(jià)的價(jià)格買(mǎi)了條魚(yú)，之后發(fā)現(xiàn)還沒(méi)有普通價(jià)的魚(yú)一半好吃。
要提升對(duì)食物價(jià)值的認(rèn)知是有難度的。
只有一些人能吃得起，這種想法是導(dǎo)致一些物種瀕臨滅絕的原因之一。
鑒于此，制片人通過(guò)《舌尖上的中國(guó)》避開(kāi)那些象征著上流社會(huì)的稀有食材是正確的。
或許這個(gè)系列的最大正能量是喚醒了神州大地上的人們對(duì)日常飲食的熱愛(ài)。
日常生活中，人們不會(huì)把飲食當(dāng)作其文化的一部分。但是，中國(guó)的傳統(tǒng)文化中只有中國(guó)飲食能深深地影響世界上其他國(guó)家的文化，當(dāng)然這點(diǎn)肯定是有爭(zhēng)議的。
例如，在美國(guó)，就算居住地沒(méi)有中國(guó)人，也會(huì)有中國(guó)的餐廳。
中國(guó)食物價(jià)廉物美，為世人公知�；蛟S沒(méi)有米其林水準(zhǔn)，在那些有中國(guó)社區(qū)的地方，中國(guó)餐廳對(duì)居住在那里的人們來(lái)說(shuō)就像是他們的命脈。
然而，在很長(zhǎng)一段時(shí)間，一些人會(huì)有一種觀念，覺(jué)得在一個(gè)國(guó)家的文化中，飲食文化應(yīng)該是屬于低端文化。
20世紀(jì)80年代，我隨同中國(guó)高官去北美旅行。
他們?cè)诤芏嘀袊?guó)餐廳都吃過(guò)（他們還不適應(yīng)西餐，快餐也不行），他們當(dāng)中有些人擔(dān)心美國(guó)人會(huì)以為中國(guó)飲食文化是中國(guó)文化的全部。
這讓美籍華人很不舒服，他們開(kāi)餐廳謀生，而且過(guò)得還不錯(cuò)。但是看完《舌尖上的中國(guó)》，相信沒(méi)人會(huì)作這種膚淺的評(píng)論。
如今，中國(guó)人真正以中國(guó)飲食自豪，有些人會(huì)較為極端，只相信自己所吃的就是最好的，其他一切都得靠邊站。
在一個(gè)定居的時(shí)代，人們從小到大吃的都是身邊的食物，很難有機(jī)會(huì)吃到他鄉(xiāng)的食物。
人們對(duì)他們自己的食物情有獨(dú)鐘，就算移居也會(huì)帶上。
在《舌尖上的中國(guó)》中，這種情況被歌頌為一種美德，或是思鄉(xiāng)之情。
我當(dāng)然覺(jué)得飲食文化是文化認(rèn)同的一個(gè)關(guān)鍵部分，銘刻在我們身上，主要還是跟經(jīng)濟(jì)有關(guān)。
如今，大城市里的年輕人有機(jī)會(huì)品嘗各類(lèi)食物。他們可能不會(huì)喜歡全部的食物，但是也不會(huì)對(duì)別的食物流露出鄙夷的表情，因?yàn)樗麄儾粫?huì)只以家鄉(xiāng)菜為尊。
認(rèn)為家鄉(xiāng)菜最好吃，這也沒(méi)什么錯(cuò)。
但是，這種觀念容易使人做出輕率的判斷，就是會(huì)覺(jué)得不熟悉的食物就是下品。
大概兩年前，CNN網(wǎng)站上有這么一篇文章“世上最難吃的10種食物”，其中很多都不合事實(shí)。
其中多數(shù)食物都是來(lái)自亞洲，包括我個(gè)人最?lèi)?ài)的皮蛋：著名的“百年老蛋”或“千年老蛋”。鴨蛋，雞蛋或鵪鶉蛋保存在粘土罐中，連同灰，食鹽，石灰和米糠放一起幾個(gè)月。
我必須承認(rèn)，我沒(méi)有勇氣去品嘗其中一些新食物，但我確信他們當(dāng)?shù)厝藭?huì)喜歡它們。我能做的就是求同存異。
CNN總部位于喬治亞州亞特蘭大，我相信大多數(shù)亞特蘭大人會(huì)被這些食物嚇到。
但是CNN不是一個(gè)僅為亞特蘭大服務(wù)的平臺(tái)，它的觀眾遍布全球。
準(zhǔn)確地說(shuō)，上面的標(biāo)題應(yīng)該加個(gè)定語(yǔ)“來(lái)自美國(guó)中部人們的觀點(diǎn)”
同樣地，中國(guó)美食家沉醉于他們引以為豪的食物，他們應(yīng)該避免作出那些帶有偏見(jiàn)的結(jié)論。
沒(méi)錯(cuò)，中國(guó)美食豐富多彩，每個(gè)地區(qū)都不一樣，但它不是世界唯一的美食。
中國(guó)人準(zhǔn)備美食很有藝術(shù)性，法國(guó)也是這樣。
中國(guó)美食在世界范圍內(nèi)可能還沒(méi)有法國(guó)美食來(lái)得有聲望。不過(guò)，再說(shuō)一次，我不會(huì)被聲望困擾。
在混雜的國(guó)家身份認(rèn)同中，當(dāng)有其他同樣偉大的東西同時(shí)存在時(shí)，文化信心根植于堅(jiān)定的信仰。
保留傳統(tǒng)文化和吸收外來(lái)文化，這兩者之間沒(méi)有沖突。
只有當(dāng)一個(gè)人極端不自信時(shí)，才會(huì)視所有不一樣的東西為一種威脅。
飲食文化隨著時(shí)間不斷發(fā)展，不像其他文化產(chǎn)品，飲食在日常所需中排行首位，所以，飲食健康不應(yīng)被忽視。
但是，飲食有更多的含義，不單單是把東西吃進(jìn)胃里，填飽肚子這么簡(jiǎn)單。它是能吸引各個(gè)感官的美食藝術(shù)。
隨著全球化進(jìn)程的加速，純品種食物將會(huì)越來(lái)越少。
所以，對(duì)于常吃西式快餐的年輕一代人來(lái)說(shuō)，《舌尖上的中國(guó)》提醒著我們：我們每天吃著自家廚房的東西，覺(jué)得沒(méi)有什么，其實(shí)是豪華盛宴。
There have been a smattering of fictional feature films with food as the main theme, such as Ang Lee's Eat Drink Man Woman - but food in such films is the icing on the cake, while the human drama is the cake, per se.
That's why A Bite of China has been such a surprise hit since first appearing on our TV screens in 2012.
Without anything like a promotional fanfare, the series has attracted a following larger than the biggest drama or comedy shows.
Its main ingredient is the clever interweaving of human stories with the preparation of food. But in this case, the audience mainly sees the human stories as the appetizer, and details about the food as the real beef.
There were even some complaints when human characters took up more screen time than the dishes.
But still, the runaway success of this well-made TV recipe has whipped up a food frenzy in the Middle Kingdom.
Items featured on the show have seen their sales skyrocket within a short time of being aired. In the first season, a rare mushroom made its way from a Tibetan forest into an upmarket coastal city restaurant.
The difficulty in collecting the elusive fungus meant an eye-watering price on the menu. As well as its fantastic taste, the filmmakers probably quite rightly considered the livelihood of the collectors when they highlighted that particular delicacy.
But it still had an unexpected fallout: So many people (the rich, of course) were alerted to it, that demand shot up and the fragile ecosystem where it grows is now threatened.
In Season 2, which has just ended, the show switched its focus to items more affordable to everyone. No longer were rare delicacies the main attraction, and so maybe gastronomic enthusiasm has been dampened slightly.
For many, curiosity remains the main driving force behind high-end Chinese cuisine.
Some seek out rare plants and animals in the name of gaining better health benefits, or delectability.
But I challenge that.
I have been enticed to try a few such rare delicacies in my time, and the truth be told, they are often not as delicious as billed.
On a trip to Hainan, one fish I was sold for 10 times the price of a regular one was not half as tasty as the lesser option.
No, it is the inaccessibility that raises the perceived value of some items.
The thought of eating items only a few can afford is the reason why some species are endangered. In that sense, the makers of A Bite of China have been right to steer away from those rare edibles that represent status symbols in high society.
But maybe the biggest upside of the series is the awakening of love among a wider swath of the Chinese public, simply for the food they consume on a daily basis.
It is not every day that people treat what they eat as part of their culture. But it could certainly be argued that Chinese food is the only part of Chinese tradition that has deeply touched almost every other culture around the globe.
In the US, for instance, even small towns with no Chinese inhabitants have Chinese restaurants.
Chinese food is known to be delicious and affordable - maybe not exactly Michelin-caliber - and for those places which do have a Chinese community, the restaurant can act as a lifeline of many who settle there.
However, for a long time, some have harbored the elitist view that food is somehow low on the list of a country's cultural markers.
In the 1980s, I joined a group of Chinese dignitaries on a tour of North America.
They dined out in so many Chinese restaurants (they were not yet accustomed to Western food, not even fast food) that some feared that many Americans might simply consider Chinese food was all China had to offer.
That offended many Chinese-Americans, who made a good living as restaurateurs. But after watching this show, surely nobody would now dare make such a flippant remark.
Today, people are so genuinely proud of Chinese food that some have moved to the other end of the scale, believing in the superiority of what they eat, to the exclusion of everything else. In an era of little mobility, people ate what they grew, with almost no chance of tasting things from afar.
People grew attached to their own foods, taking them along when they relocated.
This was extolled as a virtue, or a sign of nostalgia, in the series.
I certainly view our food as a key part of our cultural identity, which is etched on us, mainly because of economic necessity.
Nowadays young people in big cities have access to all kinds of food. They may not like all of them, but that smirk of disdain is no longer visible on their face because they probably don't have their home cuisine as the only benchmark.
There is nothing wrong with thinking your hometown's food is the best.
However, one should caution against the flip side of this belief - that unfamiliar foods are simply inferior.
When CNN's website ran an article headlined "Top 10 disgusting foods in the world" about two years ago, many cried foul.
Most of the items highlighted were from Asia, including my personal favorite, pidan: the famous "hundred-year egg" or "thousand-year egg". Duck, chicken or quail eggs are preserved in a mixture of clay, ash, salt, quicklime and rice hulls for up to several months.
I have to admit, I would not have had the guts to taste some of the other choices. But I'm sure their own locals love them. All have to be taken in perspective.
I'm sure most citizens of Atlanta, Georgia, where CNN is headquartered, would have been appalled by some of these foods.
But CNN is not just an Atlanta operation. It has viewers across the world.
Maybe to be accurate, the piece should have added a qualifying clause "from the point of view of middle Americans".
Likewise, Chinese foodies intoxicated by the pride of their own food should avoid rushing to any prejudicial conclusions.
Yes, Chinese cuisine is rich in its regional diversity, but it is not the world's only great food.
The way the Chinese prepare their food has as much flair as art - but so does French food.
Worldwide, Chinese food may not be on a par with French in terms of prestige. Then again, I'm not bothered by prestige.
Cultural confidence lies in the conviction of your own roots and at the same time in the awareness that there are other equally great things to consider in the national identity mix.
There is no conflict between preserving our own cultural heritage and absorbing nutrients from other cultures.
Only when one is extremely weak would one see all things different as a threat.
Food culture evolves with time. Unlike other culture-based products, food is first of all a necessity and, as such, its health values should not be ignored.
But food rises above that. It goes beyond filling the stomach and satisfying hunger, and slips into the realm of culinary art that appeals to all senses.
As the pace of globalization accelerates, there will be less and less pure-bred food.
So, for a younger generation so fixated on Western-origin fast food, this documentary is a gentle reminder of a luxury being offered up every day in our own kitchens, that we all may well have been taking for granted.
中文：
我們喜歡那些從小吃到大的食物，但也會(huì)去嘗試那些從未嘗過(guò)的食物。大型電視紀(jì)錄片《舌尖上的中國(guó)》播出令國(guó)人自豪的傳統(tǒng)美食。在這紀(jì)錄片的所有主題中，食物不是最主要的主題。
只有很少的故事片是以食物為主要題材，例如李安的《飲食男女》，影片中的食物可算錦上添花，然而最主要的還是人物劇情本身。
這就是為何《舌尖上的中國(guó)》在2012年開(kāi)播以來(lái)反響巨大的一個(gè)原因。
沒(méi)有過(guò)多地推廣宣傳，但《舌尖上的中國(guó)》這個(gè)系列卻擁有一大批粉絲，比最大型的戲劇或喜劇演出還受歡迎。
紀(jì)錄片在描述食物取材時(shí)，巧妙地融入人們的故事。在這種情況下，觀眾就把人們的故事當(dāng)作開(kāi)胃菜，把對(duì)食物的詳細(xì)介紹當(dāng)作主菜。
當(dāng)然，當(dāng)影片過(guò)多地刻畫(huà)人物而不是介紹美食時(shí)，也會(huì)引起觀眾的抱怨。
但這絲毫不影響《舌尖上的中國(guó)》在中國(guó)的成功，還激起人們對(duì)食物的狂熱。
在紀(jì)錄片播出后不久，片中出現(xiàn)的食材，其銷(xiāo)量就直線飆升。
在第一季中，一種西藏森林中的稀有蘑菇被運(yùn)到沿海城市的一所高級(jí)餐廳中。
由于這些稀有的菌類(lèi)食物取材困難，所以餐廳菜單上的菌類(lèi)價(jià)格就高的驚人。制片人在強(qiáng)調(diào)這種獨(dú)特的美味時(shí)，不單考慮食材的美妙口感，而且還考慮到采集者的生活。
紀(jì)錄片仍出現(xiàn)始料未及的結(jié)果：那就是太多的有錢(qián)人開(kāi)始注意它，需求涌動(dòng)，導(dǎo)致當(dāng)?shù)卮嗳醯纳鷳B(tài)系統(tǒng)面臨威脅。
在剛剛結(jié)束的第二季中，紀(jì)錄片把食材的重心放在那些人人可得的食材上。不再以稀有美食來(lái)吸引觀眾，所以觀眾的烹飪激情或許有些減退。
對(duì)于很多人來(lái)說(shuō)，在博大精深的中國(guó)烹飪背后，好奇仍然是主要的驅(qū)動(dòng)力。
為了更加健康，體驗(yàn)更美味的食物，人們就會(huì)去尋找那些稀有的動(dòng)植物。
但是我卻很懷疑這個(gè)。
我曾被勸說(shuō)去嘗試一些稀有美食，但事實(shí)是，它們常常沒(méi)有宣傳中所描述的那般美味。
有一次在海南，我以10倍于普通價(jià)的價(jià)格買(mǎi)了條魚(yú)，之后發(fā)現(xiàn)還沒(méi)有普通價(jià)的魚(yú)一半好吃。
要提升對(duì)食物價(jià)值的認(rèn)知是有難度的。
只有一些人能吃得起，這種想法是導(dǎo)致一些物種瀕臨滅絕的原因之一。
鑒于此，制片人通過(guò)《舌尖上的中國(guó)》避開(kāi)那些象征著上流社會(huì)的稀有食材是正確的。
或許這個(gè)系列的最大正能量是喚醒了神州大地上的人們對(duì)日常飲食的熱愛(ài)。
日常生活中，人們不會(huì)把飲食當(dāng)作其文化的一部分。但是，中國(guó)的傳統(tǒng)文化中只有中國(guó)飲食能深深地影響世界上其他國(guó)家的文化，當(dāng)然這點(diǎn)肯定是有爭(zhēng)議的。
例如，在美國(guó)，就算居住地沒(méi)有中國(guó)人，也會(huì)有中國(guó)的餐廳。
中國(guó)食物價(jià)廉物美，為世人公知�；蛟S沒(méi)有米其林水準(zhǔn)，在那些有中國(guó)社區(qū)的地方，中國(guó)餐廳對(duì)居住在那里的人們來(lái)說(shuō)就像是他們的命脈。
然而，在很長(zhǎng)一段時(shí)間，一些人會(huì)有一種觀念，覺(jué)得在一個(gè)國(guó)家的文化中，飲食文化應(yīng)該是屬于低端文化。
20世紀(jì)80年代，我隨同中國(guó)高官去北美旅行。
他們?cè)诤芏嘀袊?guó)餐廳都吃過(guò)（他們還不適應(yīng)西餐，快餐也不行），他們當(dāng)中有些人擔(dān)心美國(guó)人會(huì)以為中國(guó)飲食文化是中國(guó)文化的全部。
這讓美籍華人很不舒服，他們開(kāi)餐廳謀生，而且過(guò)得還不錯(cuò)。但是看完《舌尖上的中國(guó)》，相信沒(méi)人會(huì)作這種膚淺的評(píng)論。
如今，中國(guó)人真正以中國(guó)飲食自豪，有些人會(huì)較為極端，只相信自己所吃的就是最好的，其他一切都得靠邊站。
在一個(gè)定居的時(shí)代，人們從小到大吃的都是身邊的食物，很難有機(jī)會(huì)吃到他鄉(xiāng)的食物。
人們對(duì)他們自己的食物情有獨(dú)鐘，就算移居也會(huì)帶上。
在《舌尖上的中國(guó)》中，這種情況被歌頌為一種美德，或是思鄉(xiāng)之情。
我當(dāng)然覺(jué)得飲食文化是文化認(rèn)同的一個(gè)關(guān)鍵部分，銘刻在我們身上，主要還是跟經(jīng)濟(jì)有關(guān)。
如今，大城市里的年輕人有機(jī)會(huì)品嘗各類(lèi)食物。他們可能不會(huì)喜歡全部的食物，但是也不會(huì)對(duì)別的食物流露出鄙夷的表情，因?yàn)樗麄儾粫?huì)只以家鄉(xiāng)菜為尊。
認(rèn)為家鄉(xiāng)菜最好吃，這也沒(méi)什么錯(cuò)。
但是，這種觀念容易使人做出輕率的判斷，就是會(huì)覺(jué)得不熟悉的食物就是下品。
大概兩年前，CNN網(wǎng)站上有這么一篇文章“世上最難吃的10種食物”，其中很多都不合事實(shí)。
其中多數(shù)食物都是來(lái)自亞洲，包括我個(gè)人最?lèi)?ài)的皮蛋：著名的“百年老蛋”或“千年老蛋”。鴨蛋，雞蛋或鵪鶉蛋保存在粘土罐中，連同灰，食鹽，石灰和米糠放一起幾個(gè)月。
我必須承認(rèn)，我沒(méi)有勇氣去品嘗其中一些新食物，但我確信他們當(dāng)?shù)厝藭?huì)喜歡它們。我能做的就是求同存異。
CNN總部位于喬治亞州亞特蘭大，我相信大多數(shù)亞特蘭大人會(huì)被這些食物嚇到。
但是CNN不是一個(gè)僅為亞特蘭大服務(wù)的平臺(tái)，它的觀眾遍布全球。
準(zhǔn)確地說(shuō)，上面的標(biāo)題應(yīng)該加個(gè)定語(yǔ)“來(lái)自美國(guó)中部人們的觀點(diǎn)”
同樣地，中國(guó)美食家沉醉于他們引以為豪的食物，他們應(yīng)該避免作出那些帶有偏見(jiàn)的結(jié)論。
沒(méi)錯(cuò)，中國(guó)美食豐富多彩，每個(gè)地區(qū)都不一樣，但它不是世界唯一的美食。
中國(guó)人準(zhǔn)備美食很有藝術(shù)性，法國(guó)也是這樣。
中國(guó)美食在世界范圍內(nèi)可能還沒(méi)有法國(guó)美食來(lái)得有聲望。不過(guò)，再說(shuō)一次，我不會(huì)被聲望困擾。
在混雜的國(guó)家身份認(rèn)同中，當(dāng)有其他同樣偉大的東西同時(shí)存在時(shí)，文化信心根植于堅(jiān)定的信仰。
保留傳統(tǒng)文化和吸收外來(lái)文化，這兩者之間沒(méi)有沖突。
只有當(dāng)一個(gè)人極端不自信時(shí)，才會(huì)視所有不一樣的東西為一種威脅。
飲食文化隨著時(shí)間不斷發(fā)展，不像其他文化產(chǎn)品，飲食在日常所需中排行首位，所以，飲食健康不應(yīng)被忽視。
但是，飲食有更多的含義，不單單是把東西吃進(jìn)胃里，填飽肚子這么簡(jiǎn)單。它是能吸引各個(gè)感官的美食藝術(shù)。
隨著全球化進(jìn)程的加速，純品種食物將會(huì)越來(lái)越少。
所以，對(duì)于常吃西式快餐的年輕一代人來(lái)說(shuō)，《舌尖上的中國(guó)》提醒著我們：我們每天吃著自家廚房的東西，覺(jué)得沒(méi)有什么，其實(shí)是豪華盛宴。
